Saturday February 6

At 8.00 we were in a heavy swell off Pitcairn Island, the sun was shining and the island looked small, green and hilly with big waves breaking on the rocky shores. We could not imagine how Fletcher Christian had ever found anywhere to go ashore let alone set up a home for him and his band of mutineers. Once the ship was anchored we saw a longboat filled with Islanders on their way to board us, it being too difficult to get our passengers ashore. I was expecting a traditional canoe but they were in an aluminium boat, about 40 people in all, most of the island’s population out to earn a little income from the tourists. As there are only a few ships calling per year they don’t have that many chances to sell their home made products. They seem to live a very basic life, only 2 supply ships a year so they have to be pretty self-sufficient, and electricity for only 10 hours a day.
They were an amiable bunch of European and native people who were obviously delighted to be on board and set up their stalls in the ship’s ballroom where we bought an assortment of stamps, cards, carvings, local honey and so on. Anything with a Pitcairn Island stamp has added value as they have so few mailing opportunities. Sue and I posted a few cards so look out for those, though we might be home before they are delivered.
The whole population numbers only just over 50 and they are suffering from a lack of young families, there being only seven children of school age. They need young families to grow. Most of the males of the community have served time in the Island prison following the recent trial where they were found guilty of child abuse, a practice which had been pretty widespread for many years until it was discovered by a visiting policewoman and which resulted in a lot of bad publicity for the community. Now with sentences having been served they are trying to put this behind them and with the aid of EEC money are trying to establish a viable community with wind power and telephone via a satellite system.
By lunchtime they took to their boat and went back to their island existence and we sailed away for Papeete on Tahiti where we are due on Tuesday. Tomorrow, Sunday, at 2 pm I am to give my third lecture, this one on Radio 1. The captain has said we might be on the edge of a cyclone tomorrow so I’m hoping for rough weather and rain that way I’ll be guaranteed a large audience otherwise they’ll all be having a siesta after Sunday lunch.